Day 1:
Got up early to do a little final packing and grab breakfast
before walking to the bus station with my house on my back. This was my first
multiday hike and camping experience so I was feeling rather nervous but really
excited about it. We had to do this walk at a rather brisk pace as we were
running late. We managed to get to the bus station in time but the bus was
full...

After a little confusion, and a few more hikers arriving,
another bus appeared only for us to be squeezed into the first bus. By this
time Wil was getting a little worried (we arrived separately and he was
concerned that we were not going to get onto the bus). Fortunately all worked
out and we were on our way, and yet again I was asleep...

After a few hours we arrived at the park entrance where we
had to pay an entrance fee and watch a short video on the park rules and even
saw some Guanacos (wild lamas). We then jumped back on the bus to go to the
next stop where we could catch the Catamaran to the start of the hike. The
weather was not playing the game so we stayed inside the boat and enjoyed the
last bit of warmth and dry time that we could. Due to the choppy water the bags
that were stacked in front of us started to fall so I propped myself against
them to avoid the avalanche...

When the boat stopped we got off and made our way to the
shelter provided by the refugio where we sorted out our bags and made a last
bathroom break before heading out. To keep the team spirits up we decided we
needed a team name and as we decided this Rebecca joined us and said “holy
shit, its cold” and our team name was born. We were Holy Shit! Now to give each
of the members a name...

Rebecca (American - Chicago):


Andy and I were talking about taking a before and after team
photo but Andy pointed out that the after would be without Rebecca as she was
continuing to do the O. A few jokes ensued and here nickname became Dinner.

Will (American - Seattle):


Somehow will got talking to Rebecca about how many toes he
had and it turns out that he has 6 on one foot so he quickly picked up the
nickname Dozen.

Nic (South African – Cape Town):


Due to the fact that I was the oldest in the group, my
organisation skills and protective nature I was quickly dubbed Dad.

Andy (English – London):


Andy took a little longer to acquire a nickname but he was
always far ahead of the rest of us and nominated as the team photographer. Due
to this speed and photographic responsibility he became known as Digitial.

The first impression of this hike was bad. It was raining
and we were walking into the wind and it was not fun but we kept going. Every
now and then we would see a patch of blue sky (in the distance) which provided
some awesome views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We finally made it
out of the valley only to be hit by the wind, and wow was this wind string!! We
pushed through and boy was it worth it. We could now see the face of Glacier
Grey (my first real glacier) so I grabbed my flag and claimed this one to :)

We then decided to keep going to make our way to Refugio
Grey where we could warm up and drop our packs before doing some more hiking.
The hike was long and hard and very few views to distract us as the cloud was
low and the rain kept coming.

We eventually got to the campsite only to be told that the
warm showers were only available until 9 and we planned to do a sunset hike so
that wasn’t very handy. We made our way to set up camp just outside of the tree
line but the best that we could find. Fortunately the weather cleared a little
to allow us to setup our tents without much hassle.

After the camp was setup and we had no more packs on our
back we decided to continue up the trail a little more to Mirardor Grey. The
hiking was so much easier without the extra weight but it was still hard with
lots of uphill and difficult terrain. We came across an awesome bridge which
was great fun to cross and also provided some awesome views of the valley
below.

We continued a bit only for the weather to turn again and
start to rain just before we hit the mirardor. At the mirardor we got some more
views of the glacier but it was still a little far so we went rock hopping to
get closer to it. This was well worth it and the fact that it now started
snowing just made it that much more spectacular. After deciding that we better
get back onto the path and getting rather cold we headed back to camp to make
some dinner.

At camp we made our way to the cooking area. As we opened
the door it felt like a sauna...it was the best feeling of the day. Within
seconds we were warm! We then made our tuna pasta with tomato sauce which
turned out really well.

After dinner we sat around and chatted to some fellow
campers for a while before braving the cold and darkness to go watch the sunset
over the glacier. To make sure we didn’t miss it and to keep us warm we decided
to run most of the way. When we got to the lookout point we realised that we
had must it but there was still enough light for Andy and I to enjoy a few
swigs of Honey Jack while looking at the glacier.

We then made our way back to camp where we tried to get into
the refugio to warm up only to be told that they were closing so we decided to
head to our tents and call it a night.

We covered about 18km on day 1 and were confronted by rain,
wind, snow and cold. We were warned that the Patagonian weather could change
between all seasons in a matter of minutes and we definitely witnessed that
today!

Day 2:
We took a lazy start to the day and packed up and took down
the tents and got hiking by about 10am. Where we made our way along the same
trail back to Paine Grande (where the boat dropped us). Fortunately the weather
was on our side today with the sun shining brightly and very little wind. We
could now enjoy the views that we missed yesterday and boy were they amazing. I
really cannot explain how awesome this place is so the pictures are going to
have to do the talking (and they don’t even do the place justice).

After a few hours we got to Paine Grande where we stopped
for some lunch which was peanut butter wraps with banana chips and trail mix.
Here we met up with the campers we met the night before and even managed to get
some charge for our cameras!

After about an hour we packed up and made our way to
Campomento Italiano. This trail was alongside Largo Skottsberg which provided
some more spectacular views. Due to the awesome weather and views we took our
time but still got to camp earlier than expected.

At the camp we setup tent and got into our dry set of
clothes (at this stage it wasn’t really a dry set of clothes but more a not
smelly set of clothes). We then went to make our dinner (charizo pasta with
mushroom sauce) and again sat chatting with our camping friends.

We sat up chatting for a while and then made our way to bed
to get an early start the next day (which had a lot of packless hiking –
woohoo).

Again we covered about 18km today but were very lucky with
the awesome eather!

Day 3:
We decided to get an early start if the pass had been opened
(there was an avalanche the day before which had closed part of the trail). We
eventually got up later than expected but fortunately the pass was open so we
quickly jumped into our hiking gear and left our tents and packs and went up
Valle del Frances where we had great views of Glacier del Frances. 

After a lot of climbing we got to the Britanico Mirardor
where once again we had the most amazing weather which gave us spectacular
views of the valley below and the peaks all around us. We managed to get to the
mirardor faster than expected so enjoyed the views for a while and also the
snow falling on is while the sun was shining (very strange feeling – not really
a monkeys wedding?!)

We made our way down and on the way bumped into Cheryl and
Rowan again who were taking the easy options of staying in the refugios so
didn’t need to carry food or tents, etc and they took delight in reminding us
of this every time they saw us. This didn’t really bother us as we were
actually enjoying the camping and bonding with team Holy Shit.

Back in camp we packed up our tents and bags and went to
make some lunch where we had wraps with salami and cheese with some coffee and
obviously some trail mix. After enjoying our lunch break we picked up our bags
and headed to Refugio los Cuernos where we could finally get a arm shower (yes,
the first one of the hike!!).

The walk to Refugio los Cuernos was alongside Lago
Nordernskjold which provided some more spectagular views and plenty of photo
opportunities. After following the lake for much of the hike we eventually made
it to the edge where we found a “beach” full of stones but again it made for
spectacular views and much enjoyment for team Holy Shit.

We enjoyed the “beach” for a while and eventually made it
back onto the trail to head into camp. We quickly setup camp and enjoyed a nice
long hot shower which was all I was hoping for and more! It’s amazing what
feeling clean can do!

We then headed to the kitchen to make some dinner (beef
ravioli with tomato sauce). Dinner was another hit and from just outside the
kitchen area we were able to enjoy an amazing sunset.

We decided to get an early night as tomorrow was due to be
our hardest day, but as usual Rebecca and I were up for ages laughing (some
people called it giggling).

We covered another 16km this day but fortunately most of it
was without our pack which made it much easier.

Day 4: 
Due to the long day ahead we woke up at 7am to get going by
8 but finally managed to get going by 8:30. The beginning of the trail was
really hard with lots of uphill but we were constantly surrounded by mountains,
lakes, trees and everything else that nature has to offer.

After trekking for a while we bumped into Cheryl, Rowan and
Michelle were we stopped for a mid morning trail mix snack and many laughs.
Ryan (another American) also stopped with us and continued with us for the rest
of the hike.

It was a great stop and allowed us to recharge our already
fading batteries. We then continued on the trail where there were more
spectacular sights and many more up hills. We eventually made it into the
Torres Valley and were at Refugio Chileno much sooner than we expected. We
found a nice spot next to the river after the refugio where we had some more
trail mix and water break before making our last push to Campomento Torres.

As we were going up the valley there was plenty more uphill
and my legs were not happy with me but we made it and got there much earlier
than expected. We set up camp and had another biscuit and trail mix session in
the sun on the rocks.

After a good break Ryan convinced us all to go up to Base de
Las Torres where there is a lake. The plan was to only go there in the morning
for sunrise, but hey, we were here early and we will probably only be here once
in our lives so decided to head to the lake.

After a hard day, this was an incredibly demanding section
with basically walking uphill for an hour non-stop over rocks and loose gravel!
Eventually we made it to the top (with me bringing up the rear as usual). The
views of the Torres were amazing and well worth the effort. After some good
photos we decided to go for a swim in the glacial water. The swim awoke every
cell in my body (and also cleaned me a little) and it was so refreshing. I
thought I would be freezing when I got out but I was warm.

After drying off we made our way back down to camp to make
dinner and have another early night so we can make it back up to the lake for
sunrise. We made our last meal as team Holy Shit which was pasta with Charizo
and vegetable sauce.

Today was another tough one with doing about 23km with the
most of it being uphill but with more great weather and views (we have been so
lucky)!

Day 5:
We woke up just after 3 so we could pack our sleeping bags
and warm clothes into our backpacks and then make our way up to Base de Las
Torres to watch the sunrise and the first rays hit the Torres.

The hike in the dark was difficult but the torch helped a
little, but my legs were still trying to recover from the day before. I
eventually joined the group just after sunrise (fortunately it didn’t rise
where we were as there was a hill in the way so I still made it).

We found a rock that overlooked the lake and gave us a great
view of the Torres and wrapped myself in all my layers and sleeping bag. We
watched the sun rise and about 30 minutes later the first rays started hitting
the Torres and with that the weather decided it wanted to have the last say.

The wind picked up and was blowing across the lake and
straight at us and in the process picking up stones and water and throwing them
at us. I have never felt winds this strong (not even in Cape Town). I was
sitting on a rock and I was struggling to stay sitting up straight. The wind
even picked up my bag and threw it about 2m further up the hill.

We decided to call it quits and packed up our gear while
Ryan went for another swim and the made our way back down to camp being very
careful about each step we took as a gust of wind would come out of nowhere and
change your path.

Back at camp we took down our tents in the shelter of the
trees and then made some coffee only for Ryan to surprise us with some
blueberry pancake mix. We enjoyed the pancakes and then made our way to the end
of the trail by walking back down through the valley and constantly fighting
the wind (which was fortunately behind us) which kept trying to throw us off
the path.

The sun was still out but the wind made the walk very
interesting. We eventually made it to Hotel Las Torres (fortunately most of the
hike was downhill) where we would catch the bus back into town. We dumped our
bags under some trees and headed to the bar to have a much anticipated beer to
celebrate team Holy Shit conquering the W and to wish Rebecca and Ryan well on
completing the O.

On the bus back to Puerto Natales I slept the entire way (2
hours have never passed so quickly!). I do remember waking up once and that was
when my head fell against the window but I just found that more comfortable so
went back to sleep very quickly!

Back in Puerto Natales we picked up our bags for the last
time and walked back to the hostel in the rain (which I actually enjoyed). At
the hostel I quickly grabbed my stuff from storage and sorted out my bag before
heading to the shower. I have never felt so happy to be in the shower. I must
have washed myself about 4 times before feeling clean and getting all the grit
out of my hair.

Before my smelly hiking clothes could contaminate my bag and
the rest of the dorm I took them to the laundry and then we returned all the
rental gear. We even had to erect the tents one last time to show them that
they were still in working condition. By this time it was second nature to us
and they were up and down in a matter of minutes.

We then met up with Cheryl, Michelle and Rowan at Afrigonia
for a celebratory dinner. The restaurant is a fusion of Zambian and Patagonian
cuisine as the owners are a Zambian and Patagonian couple. I had prawns to
start and then a tuna steak as the main. It was more expensive than most meals
I have had but it was so good!

We were all rather flat by this stage so decided to call it
a night and made our way back to the hostel for a good night’s rest IN A
BED!!!!

In total we covered about 90km in the 5 days and were
incredibly lucky to have such amazing weather (except for the first day). When
planning my trip I had absolutely no intention of hiking let alone camping but
I am so glad I did it and met up with Holy Shit. This has definitely been one
of the highlights of my trip so far and I look forward to all the other
adventures trying to challenge for its place on the list...